Frequently Asked Questions

No. Acoustic panels absorb sound within a room, reducing echo and improving sound quality. They don't block sound from entering or leaving. For blocking external noise, you need materials with mass, like mass-loaded vinyl or sealed gaps.

Seal gaps around doors with weatherstripping and a door sweep. This often costs under $20 and can make a noticeable difference. Adding rugs and rearranging furniture away from noisy walls are also free or low-cost improvements.

Yes. Many solutions don't require permanent changes: rugs, heavy curtains, furniture placement, removable weatherstripping, freestanding panels, and white noise machines. You may not achieve perfect silence, but you can make meaningful improvements.

No. "Soundproof paint" adds negligible mass—far less than even a thin layer of drywall. Any improvement would be imperceptible. Don't waste your money.

Sound transmission depends on many factors: the specific location of noise sources, room furnishings (soft vs. hard surfaces), background noise levels in each apartment, and how each space is used. It's also possible they hear you more than you think.

No. Egg cartons have no meaningful acoustic properties. They lack the mass to block sound and the proper structure to absorb it. This is a persistent myth with no basis in reality.

MLV is a thin, flexible, dense material designed to block sound. It's effective for airborne noise and can be hung on walls or draped over surfaces. It works by adding mass, which prevents sound from passing through. It's one of the more effective renter-friendly options.

They help, but not as much as the name implies. Heavy curtains can reduce higher-frequency sounds by 5-15% and absorb echo in your room. They won't block significant noise, especially bass. Think of them as one tool among several, not a complete solution.

Footsteps create impact noise, which is very difficult to block from below. The most effective solution is addressing it at the source—asking your neighbor to add area rugs with thick pads. From your side, white noise for sleep and acoustic panels on the ceiling (for minor improvement) are the main options. True ceiling soundproofing requires construction.

First, seal any gaps around your windows. Then consider window inserts (secondary panels with an air gap) for the most effective reduction. Heavy curtains help somewhat. For sleeping, white noise machines effectively mask traffic sounds. Low-frequency rumble is hardest to block.

Bass frequencies are extremely difficult to block because they have long wavelengths that pass through most materials. Renter-friendly solutions won't stop significant bass. The realistic options are: asking your neighbor to turn it down, using isolation pads under their speakers, or involving management. True bass blocking requires substantial construction.

It varies widely. Door sealing: $20-50. Heavy curtains: $50-200 per window. MLV panels: $1-3 per square foot. Window inserts: $150-500 per window. A comprehensive approach might cost $300-1000 depending on the size of your space and severity of the problem. Start with the cheapest fixes first.