If you can see light around your door, you're hearing everything that happens on the other side. Most apartment doors—especially interior doors—are hollow-core construction, which means they're essentially two thin sheets of wood with air in between. Not exactly a sound barrier.
The good news is that doors are one of the easiest places to make noticeable improvements. The bad news is that truly soundproofing a door usually requires replacing it, which renters can't do. But you can significantly reduce noise with the approaches below.
Start with the Gaps
Before doing anything else, address the gaps around your door. Sound travels through air, and a gap under your door is basically an open invitation.
The Bottom Gap
This is usually the biggest culprit. Most doors have a gap of 1/4" to 1" at the bottom. Options to fix it:
- Door sweep: Attaches to the bottom of the door with screws. When the door closes, the flexible seal presses against the floor. Most effective permanent option.
- Draft stopper: A fabric tube filled with sand or foam that sits against the door bottom. Less effective but completely removable.
- Automatic door bottom: A more sophisticated option that retracts when the door opens and drops down when it closes. Requires installation but very effective.
The Frame Gaps
Check the gaps between the door and frame on all sides. Apply weatherstripping:
- Adhesive foam tape: Cheap and easy, but compresses over time and needs replacement
- V-strip (tension seal): More durable, folds into a V shape that springs back
- Rubber or silicone weatherstripping: Most durable, but more visible
Apply weatherstripping around the entire door frame where the door meets the jamb. The door should press firmly against it when closed.
Adding Mass to the Door
A hollow-core door doesn't have enough mass to block sound effectively. You have a few options to add mass without replacing the door:
Hang a Heavy Blanket
A moving blanket or acoustic blanket hung behind the door adds mass and absorption. Use hooks or a tension rod above the door frame. It's not elegant, but it works.
Mass-Loaded Vinyl Panel
MLV is denser than blankets and more effective at blocking sound. You can hang it on the door using hooks or adhesive strips. Some people attach it to a lightweight frame that hangs on the door.
Acoustic Door Panels
Purpose-made panels designed to hang on doors. They typically combine mass and absorption materials. More expensive but look better than blankets.
The Simple Test
After sealing gaps, stand on the noisy side of the door with it closed. Have someone on the other side speak normally. If you can clearly hear them, the door itself is the problem. If the sound is muffled, the gaps were the main issue.
Addressing Different Door Types
Bedroom Doors (Interior)
These are usually the thinnest, cheapest doors in an apartment. Focus on gap sealing first, then consider hanging mass on the bedroom side. Since it's your private space, aesthetics matter less.
Entry Doors
Apartment entry doors are typically solid-core and heavier, but they often have poor seals. Weatherstripping and a good door sweep make the biggest difference here. Entry doors also often have mail slots or pet doors that leak sound—cover these if not in use.
Bathroom Doors
Usually hollow-core with large gaps at the bottom (required for ventilation in many codes). You can't fully seal a bathroom door, but reducing the gap size helps with everyday noise.
What About Replacing the Door?
If you own your place (or have an exceptionally flexible landlord), replacing a hollow-core door with a solid-core door makes a significant difference. Solid-core doors cost more but provide meaningful sound blocking.
For renters, this usually isn't an option. But if you're dealing with a particularly problematic door and plan to stay long-term, it might be worth asking your landlord. Some will agree if you pay for the upgrade, especially if you leave the door when you move out.
Realistic Expectations
Sealing gaps around a typical apartment door can reduce perceived noise by 30-50%. Adding mass to the door itself might get you another 10-20% reduction. You won't achieve recording-studio silence, but you can get from "I hear every word my neighbor says" to "I hear muffled sounds occasionally."
For many people, that's enough to sleep better and concentrate when working from home.
Frequently Asked Questions
Weatherstripping and a draft stopper. Total cost under $20, and you'll notice an immediate difference if gaps were your main problem.
Yes, particularly for airborne noise like voices and TV. They seal a gap that would otherwise let sound pour through. They're less effective for impact noise or very low frequencies.
Pocket and sliding doors are challenging because they're designed with gaps to allow movement. You can improve them somewhat with brush seals on the edges, but you'll never get them as tight as a hinged door.