If there's one piece of advice we give more than any other, it's this: seal the gaps around your doors. For under $20 and 30 minutes of work, weatherstripping often makes a bigger difference than solutions costing ten times as much.
Sound travels through air. Gaps around doors are basically open invitations for noise. Closing them is straightforward and immediately effective.
Assessing Your Door Gaps
Before buying materials, check what you're dealing with:
The Light Test
Turn off the lights on your side and turn them on in the next room (or hallway). Close the door and look for light coming through. Any visible light means sound is also passing through.
The Feel Test
On a windy day, hold your hand around the edges of a closed door. Feel for drafts. Check the sides, top, and especially the bottom.
Common Gap Locations
- Door bottom: Usually the largest gap (1/4" to 1"+)
- Latch side: Where the door latches, often worn down
- Hinge side: Less common but possible
- Top: Often overlooked but can have gaps
Types of Weatherstripping
Adhesive Foam Tape
The cheapest and easiest option. Foam strips with adhesive backing that you press onto the door frame. The door compresses the foam when closed, creating a seal.
- Pros: Cheap, easy to apply, easy to remove
- Cons: Compresses over time, needs replacement annually
- Best for: Quick fix, temporary situations
V-Strip (Tension Seal)
Plastic or metal strips folded into a V shape. One side attaches to the frame, the other springs against the door.
- Pros: More durable, doesn't compress over time
- Cons: Slightly harder to install
- Best for: Long-term solution
Rubber or Silicone Gasket
Dense rubber strips that provide a firm seal. Often used on exterior doors.
- Pros: Most durable, best seal
- Cons: More visible, can be harder to close door
- Best for: Maximum effect, entry doors
Door Sweeps
For the bottom gap, door sweeps are more effective than weatherstripping. They attach to the bottom of the door and sweep against the floor.
- Screw-mounted: More secure, requires drilling
- Adhesive: No drilling, less durable
- Slide-on: Clips onto door bottom, easy to install and remove
Installation Guide
For the Frame (Sides and Top)
- Clean the surface: Wipe down the door frame with rubbing alcohol to remove dust and oils
- Measure and cut: Measure each side and cut weatherstripping to length
- Position correctly: Place the strip so the door will compress it when closed
- Apply: Press firmly, starting at one end and working to the other
- Test the door: It should close firmly with slight resistance
For the Bottom
- Measure the gap: Close the door and measure how much space is at the bottom
- Choose appropriate sweep: Should seal the gap without dragging excessively
- Position: With door closed, mark where sweep should go
- Install: Screw or adhere in place
- Test: Door should close with slight friction from the sweep
Don't Overdo It
If the weatherstripping is too thick, the door won't close properly or will be hard to latch. Start with thinner strips and add more if needed. The door should close with firm contact, not struggle.
Common Mistakes
- Dirty surface: Adhesive won't stick well to dusty or oily frames
- Wrong placement: Strip should be where door contacts frame, not visible when closed
- Gaps at corners: Take time to seal where strips meet at corners
- Too thick: Makes door hard to close, may damage latch
- Forgetting the bottom: The biggest gap is often neglected
Maintenance
Check your weatherstripping every 6-12 months:
- Look for compression or flattening
- Check if adhesive is failing
- Redo the light test to check for gaps
- Replace worn sections
Foam tape typically needs replacement annually. V-strip and rubber gaskets can last several years.